Denim is becoming more and more popular at the moment, and has once again become an essential part of modern fashion. This time, we will introduce you to a hidden popular item from The Cloakroom Tokyo: custom-made jeans.

When I was a teenager, I frequented a local jeans shop and discovered my interest in fashion. I wore jeans almost 365 days a year. However, maybe because I enjoyed jeans too much at the time, I became obsessed with denim and have distanced myself from them ever since. Now, jeans have become the item I'm most interested in!

Needless to say, the importance of casual style has never been higher. Denim is an essential item in a wardrobe, and how well you wear it tests your sense of style. I don't buy secondhand clothes, but the vintage scene is booming like never before, and I want to wear denim that gives off a mature vibe while still exuding the essence of vintage denim, which is "knowledge." That's the kind of mood I'm in.

It's thought-provoking that jeans, originally a symbol of mass-produced ready-made goods, are now being reevaluated as something old and good, and are being spoken of as something to cherish and love for a long time, but it also seems that the current state of affairs in suit stores is such that we want to enjoy this together with the current times, where jeans are becoming more and more compatible with handmade tailored clothing, which is the furthest thing from the context of mass-produced goods.

Now that I'm in my 40s, it's quite a challenge to start wearing jeans again. The requirements are strict.

There are three conditions I require:

① I want to wear it elegantly with a beautiful silhouette.

② I want it to match my jacket effortlessly.

3) I also want to enjoy the fading of the color.

① and ② overlap in many areas, but this is quite difficult. In the past, I used to wear them a little big and loose, but it's difficult to combine them with my current fashion, so I'll pass. Above all, they don't go with jackets that have a nice silhouette. I would like to wear them moderately slim, but in my case, my hips are big compared to my waist and my thighs are thick. When I wear ready-made jeans to fit my waist, they are tight around my hips and thighs, and when I fit them to fit my hips and thighs, the waist is loose. I generally don't like belts, so I want to wear them neatly without a belt, but this is also difficult.

I'm especially concerned about my thighs, because if they get stuck there, the crotch of my jeans won't fit my body, and my already short legs will look even shorter (tears). Doesn't this bother you?

3) Fading is something I'm still stuck with, coming from a generation that jumped on the jeans boom during my youth. I can't imagine wearing denim that doesn't fade vertically. Stretch is out of the question. I still can't get away from that value system. (It's all a matter of personal preference!)

Even though it's modern denim, I don't feel like wearing it if I can't pay attention to these details.

The only way to fulfill such a wish would be to have it custom-made.

Cloakroom offers two types of custom jeans models.

One is a vintage style with selvedge, and the other is a dress style with a neat rise and a slim silhouette.

In my case, a combination of these two would be ideal, but I choose a slim-fitting dress type as the base. First, I choose a size that fits my hips perfectly and then tighten the loose waist. I adjust the thighs to be a little wider, as a more modern look is better if they're not too tight. I adjust the crotch so that they fit my body well and make me look as stylish as possible. The default silhouette, which is not too narrow for the knee and hem width, seems just right. This creates a nice tapered silhouette. I think the length of the pants should be a little shorter. This gives a nice impression rather than a large cushion. When you order it, it is hemmed rigidly (raw) and then washed, so it's nice that the puckering at the hem (the bumps caused by shrinkage of the fabric) is well-defined.

The fabric we chose is 14 oz. selvedge woven on a power loom in Okayama. It is a material that is popular all over the world. Woven on an old loom that has been in use since the 1960s and has been repaired many times, the fabric has a powerful vertical fading that can be seen in vintage denim. Old-style looms have a narrow width of fabric and have twill selvedge, a detail often referred to as red selvedge or selvedge. Many people will not accept jeans unless they have this selvedge.

However, even if this fabric is used for the dress type, it will not have selvedge. The reason why vintage type jeans based on 501® have selvedge is because the outside of the pants is cut in a straight line. It is a specification that was designed to reduce fabric waste and labor and to mass-produce cheaply, rather than to create a beautiful silhouette.

It is because the cutting creates the silhouette only on the inside of the thigh that the slightly bowed, wild silhouette that is characteristic of this style is born.

However, this time I wanted to wear them with a beautiful silhouette and a mature look, so I made them into a luxurious dress model with a cut that hides the selvedge even though it is made from a carefully selected selvedge fabric. It's a shame that the selvedge doesn't show through, but... This way you can enjoy a beautiful vertical fading with aging.

So, this is how custom jeans can be made to fit your body beautifully and incorporate your personal preferences. I'm looking forward to seeing the finished product.

There are many more things I want to talk about, but this post is too long, so I will stop here for now. Let's talk at the store.

Because they are jeans, there are various restrictions and you can't do anything, but they are full of fun that you can't get with ready-made jeans. There is a wide variety of fabrics available, including comfortable stretch materials and white denim that is perfect for summer. Please give them a try.

Custom-made jeans

Price: from ￥40,700 (tax included)

It takes 5 to 6 weeks to complete