Last time, I wrote about the dress code, especially the possibility of wearing a jacket. Women can enjoy wearing various clothes when going out to a restaurant, but men need to pay attention to subtle differences in the fashion of their jackets and suits, shirts, ties, cufflinks, etc. I think this is a very nice thing to do, but are there any other possibilities? First of all, as long as you are Japanese, you can choose to wear Japanese clothing. However, while it is natural for Japanese cuisine, I have not seen much of it at French restaurants. I am concerned about footwear. Sandals are considered out of the question, so I wonder how they will interpret sandals. I think it is okay for women to wear kimonos, but it is quite difficult for men.
So, if you're wondering if there's anything else they should wear, you could actually wear a "uniform." Of course, it depends on the type of job. I once saw a man wearing a military uniform at a grand maison in Paris. It was a quarter of a century ago, at a grand maison called "Faugeron" in the 16th arrondissement. When I used to go there, it was a two-star hotel. The 16th arrondissement is an upscale residential area on the conservative right bank (Rive Droite), where Maria Callas lived in her later years. When I used to go there, Robuchon was also located on Rue Poincaré. Forgeron was located very close to Place du Trocadero. It is located in a location where the Eiffel Tower is right in front of you when you cross the Pont d'Iena over Place du Trocadero.
As with the food, this is a classic restaurant, and the storefront and interior are the perfect example of the word "bourgeois." It was rare even at the time, but after meals they provided a cigar trolley service, which would come rumbling along to every table and the maître d' would ask, "Would you like a cigar?" Only a few people enjoyed it, and it had become almost a ritual, but this was also very tasteful, and created a unique atmosphere. The reason I often went to this restaurant was because there was a sommelier called Jambon who became the world's best (at the same competition as Shinya Tasaki), and because this sommelier's wine list was amazing.
One day, when I visited Forgeron, I met a young couple. I was surprised to see that the man was wearing a military uniform. He looked more like a young man, or even a boy, and looked very innocent. Perhaps the military uniform was for formal occasions, as he looked smart and stylish, like something Andre (not Oscar) would wear in the Takarazuka Revue's "The Rose of Versailles." French military uniforms such as the Napoleon coat have been repurposed for fashion, and for better or worse, they were appropriate for the old-fashioned restaurant and added a touch of elegance. It may have been the couple's first time at a grand maison and they were unsure of what to wear, so they chose the formal uniform, but it was still a wonderful outfit.
So, is this something unique to France? I have met people wearing uniforms at French restaurants in Japan. It was almost 30 years ago, even before I went to Paris, at a Christmas dinner. At that time, Christmas was a big event for young people, and it was sometimes impossible to get a reservation at a hotel or restaurant in Tokyo unless you made a reservation a year in advance. Moreover, dinner was served twice or three times, so it was not a proper meal. So I decided to spend Christmas at the newly opened "Auberge Blanche Fuji" in Gotemba. It was an auberge located on National Route 138 heading towards Lake Yamanaka, about a 15-minute taxi ride from Gotemba Station, and opened in 1991. It was renovated once and closed in 2013. As expected, there were not many people coming here in the middle of winter, when even snow can be mixed in, so I was able to spend a quiet Christmas.
However, one year, on Christmas Eve, when we went down to the restaurant for dinner, we saw a group of people in uniform. There were only two or three groups of guests, including us, so there were far more people in uniform. As you know, Gotemba is home to the Japan Ground Self-Defense Force training grounds and a garrison. After some research, I found out that Fuji Garrison is nearby, which also has a school and a hospital. I think it was probably a dinner party that also served as a year-end party for the important people involved there. It was fun to have Christmas dinner while watching the sight of the uniformed members of the Self-Defense Forces lined up at a long table eating. I remember being impressed by how quietly they ate with such good manners. The uniforms were plain, unlike those in France, but they were dashing and cool. However, although there were differences in rank and other things, everyone was dressed the same, which was spectacular in itself.
Thinking about it this way, I think that police and firefighters have formal uniforms, and pilots and flight attendants probably do too, but I don't think you'd see them coming to a restaurant in those uniforms. As the world becomes more gender-free in the future, dress codes may change. First of all, I think that the path to a new fashion is to enjoy subtle differences in suits and jackets.
This month's recommended wine: Which Italian wine would go well with game?
"Genme 2011 Roverotti" 6,800 yen (excluding tax)
When we talk about game, it's not only French cuisine. Italian cuisine won't stay silent either. What Italian cuisine has that French cuisine doesn't is pasta dishes. Italian wines that go well with pasta dishes using game. The hint is Pommard from last time. All you have to do is look for Italian wines that are equivalent to Pommard. The two major regions of French wine are Bordeaux and Burgundy. The two major regions of Italian wine are Tuscany and Piedmont. Bordeaux is in Tuscany. That's because they also produce fine wines using Bordeaux grape varieties such as Sassicaia. Burgundy is in Piedmont. Both are wines made from single varieties (Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo). Pommard is in Burgundy and Beaune. The main red wine in Burgundy is Nuits. That means that since the main wines in Piedmont (Barolo and Barbaresco) are in the southern part of the state, you just need to look for wines in the northern part of the state. Among them, I recommend "Ghemme". Among them, Roverotti is a representative producer that is "praised" (Andersen, "Italian Wine"). It is unique in that it is made with 15% Vespolina, which is used only in Northern Piedmont for blending, and 85% Nebbiolo. It has an attractive perfume-like aroma and a special taste that spreads in the mouth. Therefore, it is best to let it air out thoroughly before drinking. It has a delicious taste that is as assertive as the characteristics of the game. The label is also stylish.
Where to buy
To Avicoin Line Store
Biography
Osamu Seki Born in Tokyo in 1961. Currently a part-time lecturer at Meiji University and other institutions.
He specializes in contemporary French thought and cultural theory, and is a director of the Reefer Wine Association.
His books include "An Introduction to Beautiful Men" (Natsume Shobo) and "My Neighbor is Arashi-kun" (Cyzo), and his translations include "How Should We Read Foucault?" by Oksara (Shinsensha) and "Mr. Pydrow, What Use Is a Gastronomic Critic?" by Pydrowski (Shinsensha).
Seki Osamu FACE BOOK
Seki Osamu Official Website
