It seems that the custom of enjoying an aperitif, or an aperitif before meals, has taken root in Japan, too, when it comes to cuisine such as French cuisine, where wine is consumed at the same time. Moreover, these days, the standard is to serve them with sparkling wine, ideally with champagne. Nearly half a century ago, when I started cooking French cuisine, aperitifs meant strong drinks such as short cocktails like martinis, or sherry, a fortified Spanish wine, or Kir, a drink made by mixing creme de cassis with white wine. It was rare to serve champagne by the glass, and it was considered good manners to order a demi-glace or bottle. Perhaps people didn't like serving it by the glass because the carbonation would go away. However, if everyone empties their bouteilles at the same time, like in a pairing, it's not a bad idea to serve champagne. I think the number of champagne lovers has also increased. Furthermore, since sommelier was originally a part of serving alcohol, it also means that it is a qualification that bartenders can obtain. Bartenders have played a major role in the process of the position of sommelier becoming generally recognized. It could be said that the transition from cocktails to Champagne as an aperitif represents a historical process.
However, in French cuisine, there is another way to drink alcohol: digestifs, or after-dinner drinks. Since there are aperitifs, it is natural to have after-dinner drinks. Wine is the drink to drink during the meal. However, it seems that not many people enjoy this. Well, compared to Westerners, many Japanese people are less tolerant of alcohol, so wine is the best they can handle. However, recently, I have come to think that the reason digestifs are not so popular is because of the place where you drink. Yes, it is not very desirable to drink after-dinner drinks at the table after the meal. Starting with champagne, you eat several dishes while drinking wine, eat dessert, take a break after drinking espresso, and then do you feel like having another drink?
In fact, in a real grand maison, there is a waiting bar where you first have an aperitif before moving to your dining table. After you finish your meal, you move to another location where desserts and cigars are served. In other words, there are three rooms. None of the grand maisons I visited in Paris went this far. In fact, I remember that Alain Chapel in Kobe moved to three different locations. Le Maestro Paul Bocuse Tokyo, where I was allowed to sit at the end of the queue, also had a Bar Maestro attached, and customers went back and forth between the bar and the restaurant.
Nowadays, there are almost no such restaurants, so what should we do? Yes, what the Japanese do well is to "change the riverbank," and move from restaurants to bars. That way, we can enjoy a variety of alcoholic drinks as an after-dinner drink. This is because I prefer Italian grappa to French distilled spirits such as brandy (cognac and armagnac) or marc as a digestif. Of course, there are some French restaurants that serve grappa, but it still feels like a category mistake. If you go to a bar, you can confidently order and enjoy whatever you like, whether it's cognac or grappa.
What made me realize this was when I was opening the wine I brought with me for dinner at Cafe Deux Magots in Tokyu Bunkamura, Shibuya, as if I was visiting the place every day. There was no corkage fee for customers, so I was accepted as one of them and would meet people at Deux Magots. At that time, there was a lady from a Shibuya art gallery who was very kind to me, and when I went out with her, we would first meet at a shot bar near her favorite station, and after having dinner at Deux Magots, we would always return to the bar for another drink. The owner of the bar was from a French background and was knowledgeable about wine, and that's where I discovered Grappa Sassicaia. They also had several types of cognac, and I tried them, but I preferred the Sassicaia grappa. Grappa is made by fermenting and distilling the pomace of wine, and is called "lees brandy." In France, it is called Marc, and in Italy, it is called Grappa. Sassicaia is a renowned brand known as the original Bordeaux-style "Super Tuscan" wine produced in the Bolgheri region of Tuscany, and grappa is made from the pomace of that wine.
There are two types of grappa: brown, aged in a barrel, and clear, colorless. The same goes for marc. I personally prefer the aged one. I also like the more volatile, strong aroma of grappa, and the slightly twisted aroma, more than marc. In terms of taste, grappa from Sassicaia has a sweetness to it, but marc does not. I think it's really a matter of preference, but being able to choose is the good thing about a bar.
The other day, I went to Shibuya for the first time in a while and ate at a bistro that I often visit. It was still early, so after dinner I went to the shot bar that has moved from in front of the station to near Bunkamura. The owner is still there and we had grappa. He is celebrating his 30th anniversary next year. I think the first time I was taken there by Madame was in 1996, so it must have been just two years since it opened. Bunkamura has also been closed due to redevelopment. Deux Magots has also closed. You can really feel the passage of time. Apparently the Sassicaia grappa has become expensive so they changed the brand, but it was still a delicious brown grappa.
Also, shortly before writing this article, after eating at Kawasaki in Shizuoka, I had grappa at the nearby Bar Code. This was originally a bar crawl, and I had a cheap bottle of Louis Latour Vosne-Romanée, so I felt it would be a shame not to spend a little more money since I had come all the way to the bar, and when I asked for grappa, they brought me two rare types. Chef N , who was with me, ordered a Marc, but I preferred the grappa, and of the two types, the grappa that is no longer made because the maker has passed away was my favorite. I was so drunk that I forgot to take a note of the brand or take a photo, which I regret.
After your meal, you can move to the bar and enjoy your favorite digestif. It is also a luxurious moment. We would be happy if you would add grappa to your selection.
This month's recommended wine: "Bordeaux's twin wine, Libourne wine - Merlot plays a key role"
"Chateau Fonpregade 2017 AC Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé" 7,200 yen (excluding tax)
Just as Burgundy has Nuits and Beaune, Bordeaux has two major types of wine: the so-called "left bank" wines of the Médoc and Graves, which are primarily made from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, and the "right bank" wines of Libourne, which are primarily made from Merlot.
The Médoc is classified and famous for its five great chateaux, while Libourne is home to Chateau Petrus, considered the most expensive wine in Bordeaux, in Pomerol.
The first appellation to keep in mind when it comes to Libourne wines is Saint-Emilion. It was introduced in 1955 and has been revised many times. In contrast to the Medoc classification, which remains unchanged since 1855. Each revision has caused controversy, and in 2022 , Chateau Ausone and Chateau Cheval Blanc, which had been the top two since the first classification, withdrew, and Chateau Pavie and Chateau Figeac became the top two instead. By the way, in addition to the city of Saint-Emilion, wines that can be called AC Saint-Emilion include eight villages called the ancient layer (Jurado).
Next is Pomerol, which produces Petrus. This region does not consciously classify its wines. Petrus is at the top of the list, and about ten chateaux, including La Conseillante, L'Evangile, Lafleur, Trotanoy, and Vieux-Chateau Certan, are considered to be the top chateaux.
Both appellations have satellite appellations that produce wines of similar quality: Saint-Emilion has four satellite appellations: Saint-Georges, Montagne, Lussac and Puysgain, and Pomerol has Lalande-de-Pomerol.
Also Fronsac and Canon-Fronsac. At one time, JP Moueix, the company that owns Petrus, owned many chateaux and was exploring their possibilities.
It is a good idea to look for wines from the three major regions mentioned above. In recent years, Castillon, which borders Saint-Emilion, has been attracting attention. In this era of rising wine prices, this is an appellation where you can enjoy high-quality wines at reasonable prices.
This time, we will introduce Chateau Fontplegade, which is rated as a Grand Cru Classe in Saint-Emilion. It is located in a privileged location, just west of La Gaffeliere, which is rated as Premier B. Since 2004 , it has been owned by an American businessman couple, and the 2017 vintage is made of 95 % Merlot and 5 % Cabernet Franc, allowing you to enjoy the true essence of Merlot. It was certified by Ecocert in 2013. Also, Michel Rolland is a consultant, so please take this opportunity to try this modern Saint-Emilion.
For inquiries about the wines introduced, please contact AVICO Co., Ltd.
Biography
Osamu Seki Born in Tokyo in 1961. Currently a part-time lecturer at Meiji University and other institutions.
He specializes in contemporary French thought and cultural theory, and is a director of the Reefer Wine Association.
His books include "An Introduction to Beautiful Men" (Natsume Shobo) and "My Neighbor is Arashi-kun" (Cyzo), and his translations include "How Should We Read Foucault?" by Oksara (Shinsensha) and "Mr. Pydrow, What Use Is a Gastronomic Critic?" by Pydrowski (Shinsensha).
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