Free domestic shipping on orders over ¥10,000

Gourmet News, No. 42: "Two Painters from France - Flowers of Art Blooming in Ginza and Shibamata"

Nearing Golden Week this year, a series of solo exhibitions by French-based painters with whom I have a connection were held in Tokyo.

Firstly, from April 22nd for one week, there will be an exhibition titled "The Great Universe" by Paris-based Kawabe Takao at the Kojin Gallery in Ginza.

My encounter with Mr. Kawabe was a connection of fine cuisine. When I visited Paris in September 1996, nearly 30 years ago, I happened to be sitting next to the Japanese couple Mr. and Mrs. Kawabe at a restaurant.

It was a bistro called "Los a Moëls" on Vasco da Gama Street in the 15th arrondissement, which had just opened at the time. It was the beginning of a style of restaurant that would later come to be called "bistronomy" or "bistro = gastro," where you could enjoy the latest French cuisine of grand maison quality at bistro-like prices and in a bistro-like atmosphere. While the grand maisons were located in the center of Paris, these restaurants were located in the 13th, 14th, and 15th arrondissements, on the outer edge of the progressive Left Bank (Rive Gauche). Thierry Fauchet of "Los a Moëls" was a popular pioneer along with Yves Candeborde of "Légalade" in the 14th arrondissement.

However, this was still only known among a small number of people who were interested in "gourmet food." In an era when there was no social media at all, the average Japanese person had no way of getting information other than "Travel Guide to the World" or "Rurubu," and was still largely unknown. In other words, it was something you couldn't know unless you read "Michelin" or "Gault-Millau" in French. The author had already visited Paris in 1994 and 1995, so he had a fair grasp of the latest restaurant scene in Paris at the time.

So, unlike two or three star grand restaurants in the evening, I never met any Japanese people at the bistros I went to during the day. The same was true for the Kawabe couple. It seemed to me that when they asked each other "Are you Japanese?" they were thinking, "I never thought I'd meet a Japanese person like that."

It may seem unusual to meet a Japanese painter living in Paris, but in fact, I knew another such person. The father of Professor Suenaga Shuin, who was a resident of Paris at the time and who later became a professor at Seijo University, and who helped me out in Paris, was also a painter living in Paris. That painter, Suenaga Tane, painted pictures of horses. Kawabe-san paints abstract paintings.

Now, since "Los A Moëlles" is a bistro, there was little space between tables, and we had a chance to talk. I have completely forgotten what we ate, but I remember exactly what wine we drank, which is typical of me. I remember asking Kawabe about wine as well. I asked him what kind of wine he drinks on a daily basis. In France, drinking wine every day, not just in the morning, but at lunch and dinner, can be considered a part of the meal. The couple answered that they always buy a bottle of wine, even if it is affordable.

Just as wine is said to be cheaper than mineral water, wine is an everyday item in France. First, there was wine in plastic bottles. Farmers would sell the wine they produced in plastic bottles at markets. Also, the franchise wine shop "Nicolas" that can be found on every street corner also sold wine by weight. Therefore, bottled wine (mise-en-bouteil), which is written on the wine's etiquette, can be said to be quite high quality in itself.

Although we only met once, I gave him my business card on the way out, and he started sending me postcards when he had a solo exhibition in Japan. His exhibitions had always been held in the annex of Matsuzakaya in Ginza, but after Matsuzakaya closed, I hadn't heard from him for a while, but I finally received a postcard from him. As expected, he was holding an exhibition at a gallery in Ginza.

Since it was a good opportunity, and the shop of Mr. Shimada, the founder of this series, was nearby, I invited him to come and visit, but he had to leave before I could see him. We've both gotten quite old, so I hope this won't be our final farewell...

The other was a solo exhibition titled "Halftone" by young French writer Clement Dupont. This was held at Atelier 485 in Shibamata. I visited on the opening day, May 4th. Dupont is the nephew of Maxime Ferstel, author of "Thoughts on Desire", which I translated. Ferstel, who was born in Toulouse, currently teaches French literature at an American university. He has visited Japan twice, once to give a lecture at Chiba University and other institutions. Ferstel emailed me, asking me to come and see his nephew's first solo exhibition in Japan.

But what kind of gallery is this in Shibamata, home to Taishakuten Temple and the Tora-san-related Tora-san gallery? It appears to be a gallery that introduces foreign artists, but it also seems to be a space that is used for a wide variety of purposes, such as wine parties and concerts. After some research, it seems the owner is French. That all makes sense now. Would foreigners choose Ginza to allow foreign artists to experience Japan and exhibit their works in a typically Japanese setting? Shibamata, with its downtown atmosphere, is certainly not as touristy as Asakusa, but it is a lively town and would be a good fit.

On the other hand, a gallery in Ginza seems like a suitable venue for showcasing the work of a Japanese painter living in Paris.

Mr. Dupont is a young man who appears to be in his twenties, and is also from Toulouse. He said that his parents' house is about 15 minutes away from Mr. Ferstel's house. He is currently active in Paris. Shibamata is his first solo exhibition in Japan. He said he will be traveling around the country, and that he will be learning printmaking in Kyoto. His works are like silkscreens, but in fact he uses pointillism to express the shades of color through the thickness of the work. He seems to be interested in "hanging scrolls," and was conscious of the fact that his own works would be "mounted," so he exhibited them unframed.

"Ginza" and "Shibamata." Even though they are both in the city of "Tokyo," each district has its own meaning, and even though they both live in Paris, Japanese and French people position themselves in different places. This is similar to how grand maisons are located in the center of Paris and bistronomy pioneers set up shop on the outskirts of the city.

Anyway, I wish you both the best of luck in your endeavors.

This month's recommended wine: "Chateau Marquis d'Arèsme, a hidden gem in Margaux - Enjoy an elegant ranked Medoc wine"

"Chateau Marquis d'Arèsme 2019 AC Margaux Third Growth" 8,200 yen (excluding tax)

This time, I'm rotating to Bordeaux. Last time, I chose a Chateau of Saint-Julien in the Medoc. This time, I chose another Chateau of the Medoc. This time, I chose AC Margaux. Moreover, it's a third growth. However, it's Chateau Marquis d'Arèsme, which Peppercorn also writes is "small and little known."

Unlike other village appellations, AC Margaux can also claim the name of AC Margaux from the villages of Cantenac, Labarde, Soussan, and even most of the village of Arsac. Therefore, there are many cases where vineyards are scattered across multiple villages. This "Marquis d'Arèsme" also has vineyards in the villages of Margaux and Soussan.

In fact, it has only been called "Chateau Marquis d'Arèsme" since 2009 , and before that it was called "Chateau Marquis d'Arèsme Becker". The label also had a unique and impressive horseshoe-shaped design. This was when it was owned by the Juget family, who also owns Château Marescot Saint-Exupéry, another AC Margaux third growth.

It was purchased in 2006 by the Perrod family, owners of the bourgeois Chateau Labégorce. The Perrod family are oil magnates who have steadily expanded their influence by purchasing Labégorce-Zédée and integrating it into Labégorce.

I liked the Marquis d'Arèsme Becker from the Juget era. It was a small wine, but it was very elegant and stylish, typical of Margaux.

Since the Perrod family took over, the proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon seems to have increased, and the 2019 vintage that we will introduce this time is 57 % Sauvignon, 37 % Merlot, 6 % Petit Verdot, and no Cabernet Franc. The new barrel ratio is 50% .

%. It is barrel aged for 18 months.

The name value is still not high, so the price is still much cheaper than the previous fourth-grade Branaire-Ducru.

The Perrodt family renovated the chateau in 2014. It seems that they are actively investing in facilities, so their movements are worth keeping an eye on. Take this opportunity to try the new "Marquis d'Arèsme", which has a high Parker score.

Biography
Osamu Seki

Born in Tokyo in 1961. Currently a part-time lecturer at Meiji University and other institutions. Specializes in contemporary French thought and cultural theory. Director of the Reefer Wine Association.
His books include "An Introduction to Beautiful Men" (Natsume Shobo) and "My Neighbor is Arashi-kun" (Cyzo), and his translations include "How Should We Read Foucault?" by Oksara (Shinsensha) and "Mr. Pydrow, What Use Is a Gastronomic Critic?" by Pydrowski (Shinsensha).
Seki Osamu FACE BOOK
Seki Osamu Official Website

Cart

All available stock is in the cart

Your cart is currently empty.